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We use wiring diagrams in a number of diagnostics, but when we aren't careful, they can now and again lead us to make decisions who are not accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs with the replacing parts aren't defective, and even just missing an effective repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support confirmed repair procedure is roofed within that article or a hyperlink is provided to the right SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram for the Ford EEC-IV system could be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for any cruise control system may be included in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the exact vehicle manufacturer, plus the wiring diagram for the anti-lock brake system could be built into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the exact manufacturer.
Around my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to utilize a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example during which I oftentimes tried a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If a device—say, a motor—isn't working, first determine if voltage is reaching it once the switch that powers the system is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity relating to the wire to your device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of your car, and therefore the negative battery terminal). Whether it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to carefully consider an increased resistance failure. In case the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.