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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, but if we are not careful, they can now and again lead us for making decisions who are not accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for any replacing parts aren't defective, and sometimes even missing a fairly easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support a given repair procedure is included within it or a hyperlink is provided to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram for a Ford EEC-IV system might be a part of ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for any cruise control system might be a part of ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, and also the wiring diagram with an anti-lock brake system could possibly be a part of BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
During my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how try using a multimeter), I gave a short troubleshooting example by which I made use of a multimeter to confirm that voltage was present. When a device—say, a motor—isn't working, first decide if voltage is reaching it if the switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present for the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire towards the device's negative terminal and ground (first our body of the auto, and therefore the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check for a top resistance failure. If your voltage drop test shows no trouble, the set up is toast.