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We use wiring diagrams in lots of diagnostics, but if we are really not careful, they will often bring us for making decisions that aren't accurate, encourage wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs to the replacing parts that aren't defective, and sometimes even missing an easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram essential to support a given repair procedure is roofed within it or a hyperlink is provided to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. As an example, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system might be contained in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram to get a cruise control system might be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the exact vehicle manufacturer, as well as wiring diagram a great anti-lock brake system might be included in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
In my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a shorter troubleshooting example where I often tried a multimeter to make sure that voltage was present. When a device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first evaluate if voltage is reaching it if your switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present in the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between your wire on the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the automobile, and therefore the negative battery terminal). Whether or not this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to search for a very high resistance failure. Should the voltage drop test shows no problem, the system is toast.