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We use wiring diagrams in many of our diagnostics, but if we are not careful, they can occasionally bring us to generate decisions that aren't accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for your replacing parts who are not defective, and sometimes even missing an effective repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support certain repair procedure is included within that article or a link is provided to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For instance, the wiring diagram to get a Ford EEC-IV system may be incorporated into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for your cruise control system may very well be found in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram for the anti-lock brake system can be contained in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the particular manufacturer.
At my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave this quick troubleshooting example through which I often went a multimeter to make sure that voltage was present. In case a device—say, an electrical motor—isn't working, first determine if voltage is reaching it if your switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between wire for the device's negative terminal and ground (first the body of your car, and therefore the negative battery terminal). Whether or not it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to pay attention to an increased resistance failure. In case the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.