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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, in case we are not careful, they can on occasion lead us for making decisions that aren't accurate, be a catalyst for wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs for the replacing parts that aren't defective, and sometimes even missing an effective repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support confirmed repair procedure is roofed within that article or a hyperlink is supplied to the appropriate SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For instance, the wiring diagram for the Ford EEC-IV system may be built into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system may very well be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the precise vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram for the anti-lock brake system may be contained in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the unique manufacturer.
In my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to use a multimeter), I gave a short troubleshooting example wherein I oftentimes tried a multimeter to confirm that voltage was present. If a device—say, an electric powered motor—isn't working, first determine whether voltage is reaching it once the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present at the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire to the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the vehicle, and therefore the negative battery terminal). If this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to look for a high resistance failure. In case the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.