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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, but if we aren't careful, they can now and again lead us to generate decisions that are not accurate, trigger wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs with the replacing parts that are not defective, and occasionally missing a straightforward repair.
Today, the wiring diagram needed to support a certain repair procedure is roofed within it or one of the links is provided to the right SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For instance, the wiring diagram for any Ford EEC-IV system could possibly be included in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system may be found in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the actual vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram for an anti-lock brake system may be found in BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the actual manufacturer.
During my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to train on a multimeter), I gave a quick troubleshooting example through which I often went a multimeter to substantiate that voltage was present. If the device—say, an electric motor—isn't working, first decide if voltage is reaching it if your switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present within the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between wire on the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the vehicle, and so the negative battery terminal). Whether or not this passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to pay attention to a superior resistance failure. In case the voltage drop test shows no worries, the set up is toast.