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We use wiring diagrams in a number of our diagnostics, but if discussing careful, they can now and again bring us to create decisions which aren't accurate, encourage wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs with the replacing parts which aren't defective, and even missing an easy repair.
Today, the wiring diagram necessary to support a certain repair procedure is roofed within it or the link is provided to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. For example, the wiring diagram for any Ford EEC-IV system can be built into ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for just a cruise control system could be built into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the specific vehicle manufacturer, and the wiring diagram for an anti-lock brake system could be incorporated into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the precise manufacturer.
Inside my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how to utilize multimeter), I gave a brief troubleshooting example in which I often tried a multimeter to make sure that voltage was present. When a device—say, a stainless steel motor—isn't working, first decide if voltage is reaching it as soon as the switch that powers the device is turned on. If voltage is present for the device's positive terminal, test for continuity relating to the wire for the device's negative terminal and ground (first your body of the auto, and so the negative battery terminal). Whether it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check for an increased resistance failure. If the voltage drop test shows not an issue, the device is toast.