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We use wiring diagrams in a lot of diagnostics, but when we aren't careful, they can occasionally lead us to produce decisions which aren't accurate, which can lead to wasted diagnostic time, unnecessary parts costs to the replacing parts that are not defective, and sometimes even missing a simple repair.
Today, the wiring diagram required to support a particular repair procedure is roofed within it or a web link is supplied to the correct SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAM article. Such as, the wiring diagram for just a Ford EEC-IV system could be found in ENGINE PERFORMANCE and WIRING DIAGRAMS articles for Ford Motor Co. The wiring diagram for a cruise control system may be incorporated into ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT section for the particular vehicle manufacturer, as well as wiring diagram for the anti-lock brake system may be incorporated into BRAKES and WIRING DIAGRAMS for the particular manufacturer.
In my recent multi-part series on automotive electrical systems (which included primers on how electricity works and how try using a multimeter), I gave this short troubleshooting example in which I oftentimes tried a multimeter to verify that voltage was present. In case your device—say, a motor—isn't working, first determine if voltage is reaching it when the switch that powers the set up is turned on. If voltage is present for the device's positive terminal, test for continuity between the wire towards device's negative terminal and ground (first one's body of your car, and so the negative battery terminal). When it passes those tests, conduct a voltage drop test to check for an increased resistance failure. Should the voltage drop test shows no issue, the device is toast.